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Desillusion Magazine has been doing a great series of portraits on surfers. The interviews are surprisingly honest, making the subject out to be more human than marketable personality. The following…
DetailsNot as stronger onshore winds today with waves 2-3+ feet. The choppy mornig surf may become less choppy
Nature is often hidden, sometimes overcome, seldom extinguished.
Amazing day, best one yet
~Chris Ropero when asked about the Single Fin Hoe Down today
Super large perfect 4-6 foot waves today!
~ said and spread on April 1st
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6:55 am: After the increasing in our surf yesterday, it has leveled off some overnight. Wave size 2-3+ feet. It’s still choppy but not as windy with plenty of swell. On our local buoy the early morning wave height reading 5.9 feet at between 8 and 12 seconds compared to yesterdays ealry mornign reading of. 3.9 feet at 5 seconds. The marine forecast calling for the wind to lighten up some later today. The water temperature is measured at 70 degrees at The Pier this morning. And you can see the ocean live by viewing The Surf Station Cam Page here.
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7:30 am: Early morning photos are up in box #1 and you can see we have some size to the waves for your Tuesday. It came up yesterday, and has leveled off in size overnight after the buoy offshore peaked yesterday. Onshore winds with the swell is more spread out now, so still quite strong, if not very strong. Some really fun surf may be on tap, with wave easily waist to chest high….
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Reporter: Darbs
11:15 am: We have some swell on tap for your Tuesday, though the form isn’t great. Our local winds are currently blowing out of the NNE @ 12 knots, adding a fair amount of texture to the waves. The current isn’t looking as extreme as last night, with our local buoy currently reading 4.9 feet @ 9 seconds. The waves are looking to be in the 2 to 3 foot plus range, breaking fast and closer to shore at report time. We have a low tide approaching at 2:30 this afternoon, so the waves will start breaking farther out the back, which won’t be good news for the Dredge. If you’re looking for some powerful surf and don’t mind the bit of texture, today would be a good day to get out there.
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Left up from last night:
9:00 pm: The are 70 new evening photos are up in box #3 and you can see the super north angle to the swell as it rips near sideways at The Dredge. Some bent ‘inside out’ waves! Lots of barrels and tons of current. Choppy overall with waves easily waist to chest high with some bigger peaks. We will have video up on the surf report instagram in just a bit
And this will do it until early in the morning.. over and out…
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