I missed updating yesterday after a long day of football (Jags win!), surfing, and sand bagging. The Dunlap brothers (Matix/DVS owners) recently built a beachfront home near Pipeline and todays 100 foot swell was threatening the property. A bunch of us went down and filled 225 sand bags to build a barrier to help keep sand from eroding away. Fortunately, it seems to have helped thus far as the erosion isn’t as bad as originally expected. Now we just have to hope the swell and surge doesn’t get even larger overnight.
P1010116

BUNCH OF SANDBAGGERS!

Now, on to today. Waimea was ridiculous. About 25 dudes were out practicing for the Eddie and it was mean out there. In 30 minutes we saw a closeout set, about 5 guys ride 50 footers, and one guy get smashed into the rocks and somehow come out unscathed. I was actually scared for everyone out there. The video below doesn’t even do it justice.

Closeout Set Hits Waimea from Jimmy Wilson on Vimeo.

Tomorrow ought to be another day of massive surf, and then the Pipe comp may start mid week in epic surf. Stay tuned. For now, check out my video of the last two days before the 50 year storm below. And check out Jimmicane’s Surfing Mag blog here.

12_07_09 from zander morton on Vimeo.