Hey everyone, got to Hawaii on Saturday night. Kids did great on the flight. Got to watch WVU beat Rutgers and make it to the Gator Bowl. Thanks Delta for the TV. We were all pretty beat, here are some airplane humans…
Yesterday (Sunday), Backdoor and Pipe were doing there thing a little bit. Kelly was riding a quad. CJ has a nice backside. Cory got some good ones. Basically those guys surf that scary wave so good. Myself, indeed, would die if I paddled out. Not joking one bit. Here is a quicky video, check out my opening shot of this bodybuilder. I punched him in the face right after…
They have been hype’n this crazy swell. Woke up, Aaron Taylor and I checked it…well, it was big and stormy…but not even crazy big. Kinda wrote it off, ate breakfast, played with the kids, and hung out with Zander and Jimmicane. Noticed the swell kept getting bigger and bigger and bigger. Its not clean but they are the biggest waves I have ever seen. Aaron claims its the biggest he has ever seen. We sat at Rockpiles for a good hour watching bombs drop…
Don’t let that amazing iPhone photo fool you, its 30 foot plus out there. Driving home we saw some crazy sets at Shark’s Cove…we were claiming 50 foot. Could be wrong. Either way it looks scary as crap. Looks like the Eddie is running tomorrow. Traffic is a mess. Beaches are closed. Saw a dude try to paddle out. Oh, the North Shore. I didn’t see Rick Cane today though. Bummer.
